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Jess
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“It’s not just a sport; it’s an entire lifestyle; I’m talking about alpine climbing.”"

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"No timeouts; no cheerleaders; no time limit; no other sport does that. No other sport gives you the feeling of complete control over your life because it’s a sport that takes risk and focus; you have to take all the disciplines of climbing and put it all together to be a great alpine climber.”

Jess Roskelley

Jess Roskelley has been an extreme athlete and mountain guide for half of his 30 years. He grew up in an outdoor sports family, hiking, backpacking, climbing and mountain biking throughout the west.

“My dad used to put me on his back and we would mountain bike through the Tetons, the Selkirks, and other mountain ranges looking for moose, elk and antelope,” Jess said. “He took me on many climbs as well and, as I grew older, I knew then that mountain climbing was in my blood.”

Jess was a three-sport varsity athlete throughout high school, competing in wrestling, cross-country and track, sports that developed endurance, strength and determination. He also raced mountain bikes around the Pacific Northwest and snowboarded during the winters.

Jess passed the Rainier Mountain Guides exam at age 18 and began guiding clients on Mt.Rainier. During his breaks from multiple ascents of Washington’s highest peak, he would find more challenging alpine climbs throughout the Cascades, developing a passion for more extreme mixed ice and rock routes.

“Extreme alpine climbing challenges me mentally and physically,” Jess said, “There are so few activities where rigorous training and past experience are essential to making immediate and critical life and death decisions.”

In 2003, Jess reached the summit of Everest via the North Col/North Ridge Tibet route, becoming at the age of 20 the youngest American to stand on top at the time. He’s gone on to challenge peaks and routes throughout the world, focusing on unclimbed lines and other extreme alpine routes.

 

 

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About US

North America


• COME AND GET IT - 5.11 WI6+ WI6 Hyalite Canyon

• MT. WAKE - Ruth George- first ascent of the south face. (cook Inlet grade 4 AI4 M4 9100’)

• THE REAL BIG DRIP - 200m Grade 5 M7+ WI6

• BANKS LAKE WA - Chuck Norris and the mortal. 85m M8 WI7​2001-2011

• Guide on Mt. Rainier out of high school. Over 40 ascents on numerous routes.

• First ascents on Mt. Ojibway, cabinet mountains and Chimney Rock, Idaho Selkirks

• MT. MCKINLEY - Two ascents of west buttress. One ascent solo.

• MT. SNOWDOME – Canadian Rockies – Slipstream 925m VI WI4+

• MT. HUNTER – West Ridge ascent 50 hour continuous push.

• MT. HUNTER – North Buttress Atempt - 2012

• NEMISIS – Stanley Headwall – V WI6

• POLAR CIRCUS – 700m V WI5

• WHITEMAN FALLS – IV WI6

• HYDROPHOBIA 150 m V WI 5+

• GOATS BEARD – Mazama Washington. 450m WI5 second free ascent. Possible longest pure ice route in lower 48

• First Ascent of HYPA ZYPA COULOIR (ED:AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3, 1100M, Citadel East Face, Kichatna Range, Alaska.

 

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south America


• MT. ACONCAGUA - Polish Glacier - Guide 2004

• ALPAMAYO - French Direct - 2012

• SW RIDGE OF TAULLIRAJU - Attempt - 2012

• EXOCET CERRO STANDHARDT - attempt -2012

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ASIA


• STOK KANGRI - India Ladahk -20,000 ft plus - 1997

• MT. EVEREST - Tibet - youngest American to summit - 2003

• MT. CHOLASTE - Nepal - Southwest Ridge attempt - 2004

• MT. GAURI SHANKAR - Tibet - East face attempt -2006

 

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